- Sabina Begum is a 31-year-old woman who uses toner and day cream to shrink pores and lighten hyperpigmentation.
- A dermatologist suggested she use a retinol at night and to ditch her alcohol-based toner.
- This story is part of Insider's Skin Clinic series. If you'd like to have your skincare routine reviewed by experts, fill out this form.
Sabina Begum is a 31-year-old woman of South Asian descent who shared her skincare routine to get an analysis from a dermatologist as part of Insider's Skin Clinic.
Begum said her biggest skin problems are dullness, hyperpigmentation (or dark spots), uneven texture, and large pores. She has a morning and night routine, and uses products like toner, vitamin C cleanser, night cream, and more.
Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a board-certified dermatologist at New York City's Schweiger Dermatology Group, said Begum has an impressive routine, but suggested to swap a few products for better results.
Antioxidant cleansers do 'nada' for the skin
Every morning, Begum begins her skincare routine by massaging a vitamin C cleanser on her skin for one minute and washing it away with lukewarm water.
Nazarian suggested skipping the vitamin C cleanser, as antioxidant cleansers do "nada" for the skin.
"Antioxidants need to be left on the skin," Nazarian said, rather than being wiped off, as you do with a cleanser. "They have to be used to neutralize free radical damage during the day, or the most useful in the morning, oxidative stress from living in a city, from pollution, from cigarette smoke, from, you know, visible light."
Pigmentation can occur when the skin gets exposed to free radical damage, or when unstable atoms found in polluted air attack healthy cells, Nazarian explained. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals so they cannot damage the skin.
Instead, Nazarian said, Begum should start her routine by applying a lightweight serum to clean skin.
Skip the alcohol-based toner
Begum's second step is to apply No7 Radiant Results Revitalizing Toner using a small cotton pad, which she bought with the goal of shrinking her pores.
Then she uses Fade Out Advanced Brightening Day Cream to address hyperpigmentation, before applying Nivea moisturizer and sunscreen.
Nazarian suggested Begum nix the toner from her routine, as alcohol-based toners dry out the skin and can make it appear more dull. The day cream and sunscreen can stay, she said, but she urged Begum to use a high SPF sunscreen.
Use a retinol at night, and don't use multiple cleansers for dry skin
Begum begins her nighttime routine by double cleansing her skin using The INKEY List Oat Cleansing Balm and Boots Vitamin C Cleanse.
She reapplies a toner and moisturizes using Fade Out Extra Care Brightening Night Cream because it contains niacinamide, formally known as vitamin B3.
Nazarian said double cleansing may be drying out her skin, and urged Begum to stick to one cleanser. The dermatologist added she doesn't need a niacinamide product at night since she's already getting it from her daytime brightening cream, and once a day is enough.
Nazarian stressed Begum use a product containing retinol, a form of vitamin A, at night to help with anti-aging and pigmentation.
'Work smarter not harder'
To maintain healthy skin throughout the day, Begum said she eats a balanced diet with fruits and vegetables, drinks plenty of water, and wears long sleeved clothing to cover her skin in the sun. She applies sunscreen and Vaseline to her lips throughout the day.
In the shower, Begum uses Sanex Biome Protect Moisturizing Shower Gel, and then Vaseline Advanced Repair Unscented Body Lotion. Once a week she exfoliates her skin using Sukin Super Greens Facial Scrub and moisturizes. She said she skips toner when she exfoliates because it irritates her skin.
Nazarian applauded Begum for protecting her lips, but suggested a hyaluronic acid-based exfoliator instead of the physical scrub, which can be harsher on the skin.
Overall, Nazarian said Begum had a pretty good routine, but she needed to "work smarter, not harder."
"If you're using a product that only does one thing, then you're gonna end up with like the 15 step regimen, which nobody has time for," Nazarian said. "You're better off finding a product that, that addresses multiple different skin issues at the same time."