- I've traveled the world as a writer, and food in Baja California Sur remains some of my favorite.
- Here are my top choices for eateries across the peninsula, including tacos, sushi, and more.
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I've spent more than 20 years visiting Baja California Sur and Los Cabos (the two cities of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo) thanks to my career as an adventure-travel journalist and my love of the Sea of Cortez.
I'm also a longtime food reporter who's tested out many top chef's cuisines and street food galore from around the world, and Mexican food ranks high among my favorites.
When I started visiting the Cabo region, dining out was both cheap and delicious. The options were mostly fish tacos, ceviche, and shrimp enchiladas that cost about 10 bucks for dinner in casual spots — even frozen margaritas or a Tecate beer didn't add much to the bill.
Today, while budget-friendly options are still around, meals at many restaurants can run up to $150 (or much more) a person. But when you taste the cuisine, it becomes clear why people pay those prices — I'll admit I love the elegant version of seafood that reigns these days in the top restaurants of Cabo.
The culinary scene is thriving in Los Cabos, from world-renowned chefs to local geniuses making their mark. Mixology also rules here, with top-shelf tequilas and mezcals leading the way in tasty blends that go down perhaps a bit too easily for an early adventure tour the next day. And Mexican wines from Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California Norte share the table with imports from California, France, and beyond.
It's a culinary cornucopia in Baja California Sur nowadays, and great food can still be had for bargain prices — especially in northeast La Paz, where the street-food scene is going strong with sometimes unexpected tastes. Hot dog, anyone?
Here are some of my favorites; just remember to be willing to travel for some of these unique and unforgettable eateries.
Los Tres Gallos
The original location of Los Tres Gallos (named for three famous Mexican actors) is in Cabo San Lucas, beloved by locals and tourists in the know since opening in 2010, with its winning combination of old-school Mexican dishes and a lively atmosphere. This is the spot to eat incredibly flavorful mole, indulge in a classic cochinita pibil (smoky slow-roasted pork — one of my favorite Mexican dishes), and soak in the mariachi-music-filled courtyard ambiance that's made Los Tres Gallos a constant hit since it opened 12 years ago. There's now a second location in the Distrito del Arte in San José del Cabo, where the restaurant is built around a large tree that adds to its homey feel.
Nobu Los Cabos
Views of the Pacific Ocean, the finest fresh fish, and Nobu Matsuhisa's deft touch make this one of the most delicious Japanese restaurants in the area — and one of the most expensive. It is Nobu, after all. The huge patio allows diners to enjoy the ocean breeze while indulging in delicate bites of sashimi and sushi, especially Nobu's signature yellowtail with jalapeno, a divine melding of a sliver of melt-in-your-mouth soft raw fish juxtaposed with a crunchy hot pepper. And diving into the famous black cod with miso sauce here is an experience I'll never forget. Every now and then, as has happened to me once at the resort, Nobu himself turns up for a visit and takes a stint behind the sushi bar, where he reminds everyone that the way to eat sushi correctly is to sit at the bar and order one piece at a time, to be eaten immediately.
The Crazy Lobster
Pretty much the opposite of the Nobu experience is The Crazy Lobster, a raucous place near the marina in the center of Cabo San Lucas that's been open since 1990. Here, you may not find the subtleties of fine cuisine, but for a lively, tequila-fueled party scene with a surf-and-turf plate full of steak and lobster going for about $20, this is the place. The menu is mostly made up of seafood, Jose Cuervo shots flow for about a dollar, and they'll even take your fishing catch and turn it into dinner for you — just bring it along and hand it over to the chef, and soon you'll be eating your very own fresh fish. It's such a friendly and well-loved place that I've met locals and tourists alike there over the years, all taking advantage of the reasonable prices for some pretty tasty food.
Nicksan
Giving Nobu a run for Japanese with a Mexican twist, this popular spot has been serving up the best sushi I've found in Cabo over the past 25 years, long before Nobu came to Baja California Sur. I like the original Nicksan in downtown Cabo San Lucas, happily ensconced there since 1994 under the helm of Chef Angel Carbajal, but it's also fun to stop by the second location (since 2005) in The Shoppes at Palmilla near San José del Cabo, especially just before boarding the plane at the airport to head home. Its omakase is to die for, and the tuna tostada with avocado and habanero is legendary (and reason alone to visit). The menus are seasonal in both locations, and my favorite is the original in Cabo, but both serve up wonderfully fresh and vibrant sashimi and sushi.
Toro Latin Kitchen & Bar
The Toro Latin Kitchen & Bar brings a special kind of "wow" factor to Cabo. About 7 miles up the Tourist Corridor from the center of Cabo San Lucas, this hot spot combines music, dancing, and great food by Chef Richard Sandoval, who's kept both locals and tourists returning regularly since 2015. The ceviche bar is one of my favorites, with seasonal choices that meld surprising flavors into a truly satisfying whole; try the Jamaica-Kampachi tiradito with local mangoes and citrus. A wood-fired grill gives meats an amazing flavor, and the wild scene adds to the appeal of this expensive and fun party spot/eatery.
La Garita
For a truly local culinary experience, drive north for about an hour from Cabo San Lucas toward La Paz to discover La Garita, a roadside hole-in-the-wall where tortillas are homemade, the beer is cold, and the burritos hot and tasty. Covered picnic tables outside keep the hot sun away and allow you to soak in the very casual atmosphere. Kids will want to take a look toward the back, where the restaurant lets a bunch of animals like goats, peacocks, and other fascinating critters wander around. It doesn't get more local than La Garita.
Restaurante Origen La Paz
La Paz has a lot of excellent restaurants (think Tatanka Baja Fish and Steakhouse, Hambrusia, or Nemi), but my current favorite is Restaurante Origen La Paz. This small yet sophisticated gem is run by Chef Héctor Palacios, who uses locally sourced ingredients — like fish and shellfish from the Sea of Cortez right out the restaurant's front door — to create unique flavors and delicious combinations of omnivore and vegetarian dishes. Chef Héctor will also cook up the fish you caught earlier in the day if you just ask an hour or two ahead of time. He transforms the catch into unexpected creations with delicate sauces and interesting side pairings. When he did this for me, it was truly a meal to tell tales about back home. The eatery has great cocktails, too — like the orquidea, a rum-based take on a tiki-bar drink, with notes of vanilla, pineapple, almond, and raspberry. That one goes down easy, especially on a warm evening.
Hates El Curra hot-dog stand, La Paz
Who would ever expect to find a hot-dog stand in the middle of La Paz? Locals, that's who. The stands are dotted all over the place, with probably the most famous being Hates El Curra on Independencia near the Jardin Velasco and a few blocks from the ocean. Open from 7 p.m. to midnight, it serves up hefty hot dogs loaded with toppings and sauces. The one I ordered was served on sweet rolls, with the dogs wrapped in bacon and fried, then topped with chopped tomatoes, onions, jalapeno, ketchup, and mayonnaise. Be sure to be holding napkins.
Zai Sushi Surf Bar
Zai Sushi Surf Bar is a picturesque "bar on the beach" on the East Cape, the southeast section of Baja California Sur that was much less traveled until the opening of the nearby Four Seasons Resort. It looks out on the Sea of Cortez and serves up sublime sushi and other fish dishes, like its delicious and spicy Curricanes, made with crab and avocado wrapped in fresh fish and covered in serrano-chili sauce. It's really worth the drive, or if you're a surfer, a great place to stop for dinner after a day at the nearby breaks at La Fortuna Beach.
Acre
Acre Farm and Resort is one of the two hugely popular farm-to-table spots in San José del Cabo and grows much of the produce it serves in its on-site garden. Two expat Canadians are the proprietors of this 25-acre spread, and they also produce a house-brand mezcal (made in Oaxaca, naturally). That mezcal made me think differently about agave-based spirits. Tequila and I parted company long ago after one too many hangovers. They've got mango orchards, too, as well as 12 treehouses in their small hotel if you want to make a night of it here. The houses really are up in the trees, complete with king-size beds.
Flora Farms
Flora Farms is another hot spot for sustainable-minded foodies looking to dine. It's the other hugely popular farm-to-table spot in San José del Cabo. This place serves only what it grows and raises, such as meats and produce from its farm and ranch, which are predominantly organic. It's always jammed-packed, so be sure to make a reservation, and try to avoid going on the weekend. Each time I've visited, Flora Farms yields different seasonal tastes, as the menu changes with what is available at different times of the year. Find fennel sausage over pasta in the fall or a fresh vegetable quiche in the spring. The beautiful setting with outdoor tables makes the dining experience all the more enjoyable — it really is a gorgeous place with excellent food, wine, and cocktails that's kid-friendly, too, with a long list of pizza and homemade ice creams that satisfy the younger set.
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