- I spent three weeks in Dubai in December for the UN Climate Summit.
- I dressed modestly but learned that's not required, and made time for Emirati heritage in Sharjah.
- Before my trip, I also spoke to human rights groups about press and political freedom.
I spent three weeks in Dubai this December, mostly covering the UN Climate Summit, or COP28, for Business Insider. I also made time for some sightseeing.
This was my first trip to the United Arab Emirates, so my knowledge of local customs, press, and political freedom was limited. I also didn't know about many tourist attractions, aside from the Burj Khalifa (the world's tallest building) and Dubai Mall (which has over 1,200 shops).
I researched local customs and press freedom in advance but learned a lot along the way.
Here are my top takeaways:
I dressed modestly but was surprised that many others didn't
I packed a lot of long-sleeved blouses, blazers, and maxi dresses, both because I wanted to look professional at work and because Islam is the UAE's official religion, and I wanted to respect local customs.
However, I quickly learned that only 11% of the country's population is Emirati, according to the World Bank. The vast majority are expats from countries like India, Pakistan, China, Indonesia, and the US. Many are migrant workers in the country's booming construction industry who work in extreme heat, an issue human rights groups have raised alarm about.
What people wear in Dubai reflects the diverse population and the 14 million tourists who visit the city annually.
My blazers were OK for working in air conditioning, but I wish I had packed a few more light, summery dresses for the time I spent sightseeing since it's hot in Dubai. Temperatures hit nearly 90 degrees Fahrenheit, or 32 degrees Celsius, each day in early December.
Make time to visit Sharjah if you're interested in Emirati heritage
I saw some of the most well-known Dubai attractions, including the water park and Burj Khalifa. But I recommend spending some time in Sharjah to learn about Emirati culture.
It's the third-most populous city in UAE and one of seven Emirates that make up the country. Depending on traffic, Sharjah is about 25 minutes to an hour north of Dubai. The best way to get there is by taxi, which could cost up to $30, according to locals I spoke with.
There's a heritage area in Sharjah where you can visit museums showcasing the region's history and traditions, shop at souq markets, and see the seaport. Before the Emirates discovered oil, the economy was driven by fishing, trade, and pearl diving.
Make sure to try Luqaimat, fried dough balls covered in date syrup, and karak chai. The Middle Eastern tea is sweet and spiced with cardamom, clove, and cinnamon.
I'm glad I spoke to human rights groups ahead of my trip
Most of my time in Dubai was spent reporting on the UN climate summit.
Before leaving, I researched the history of the UAE and how its rise as a major oil producer had shaped the young country into the opulent international metropolis it is. I also spoke to human rights groups to learn about the country's track record on press and political freedom because there often are protests at UN climate summits.
Speech is tightly restricted in UAE and dozens of political dissidents have been jailed, human rights groups said. For these reasons, I wanted to be careful, especially when interacting with local residents.
While I could report on anything and protests were allowed at Expo City in Dubai, that was only because UN rules applied within the venue. For locals living and working in the UAE year-round, it's a different set of rules.